Proper Care for your Siberian Cat
Before you take your new Siberian kitten home, read these safety and care tips. Be prepared with basic necessities before you go to pick up your kitten, and know how to identify aggressive behaviors and help your kitten stay trusting and happy.
Nutrition
One of the most important considerations when caring for a pet is nutrition. Perhaps the first thing to know is what foods are toxic to your Siberian cat.
The huge number of commercial choices can be confusing. How do you decide what's best for your Siberian? More important than whether the food is from a bag or a can is what's in the food. Cats need protein, fat, calories, vitamins and minerals.
The AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) lends its name to packaged foods that they deem "complete and balanced". Foods that display this approval are great choices for your kitten or cat. Without that, you have to analyze the ingredients yourself. They are listed in order of quantity by weight. Since meats contain a lot of water, "meals" may be a better first ingredient, because the protein in them is concentrated. Byproducts may have a bad reputation, but they too are good for your cat. They are not beaks and toenails, but more likely livers, tongues, diaphragms - parts that provide necessary protein and amino acids. In general, adult cats and kittens should have about 38% protein in their diets, at least 9% of that from animal protein. Kittens also need between 12-24% fat. For detailed information, read this article about cats' dietary needs.
Up until about six months of age, kittens need access to lots of protein and calories to support their rapid growth. Offer meals about 6 times a day if you choose not to just leave food available all day (free feeding). Limit feeding table scraps, and make sure that treats are no more than 10% of your cat's diet.
If you are switching your cat's diet, mix the old kibble half and half with the new food for a couple of days to transition them.
Safety Tips
Some information that all cat owners need to know to keep our furry friends safe and healthy:
FOODS TOXIC TO CATS
Chocolate
Alcohol
Grapes (or raisins)
Onions (onion powder)
Garlic (garlic powder)
Caffeine
Bones (can splinter and cause internal damage)
Yeast dough
Tobacco products
Xylitol (a sweetener found in some chewing gums and candies)
Raw meat or eggs (risk of salmonella)
Many nuts (see full list of nuts toxic to cats)
Dairy products may cause diarrhea or itchy skin
OTHER SUBSTANCES TOXIC TO CATS
Medications for people (ibuprofen, naproxen, Effexor, Adderall)
House plants (lilies - Tiger, Asiatic, Japanese) Contact veterinarian
ASPCA List of Plants Toxic to cats
TOXIC SUBSTANCES IN FUR
Wrap the cat in a towel to keep them from licking/ingesting more.
Insecticides
Antifreeze
De-icers
Fertilizer
Ant bait
Slug bait
Household cleaners
Tea tree oil and other essential oils (can be absorbed by skin)
THE ELEMENTS
Most people know that it's unsafe to leave a cat in a hot car. It can also be unsafe to leave them in a warm car, if you are delayed in the errand you're running. Siberian cats in Seattle can suffer brain damage and/or die at 109°, which can happen in half an hour in only 75° weather. (See this chart from the American Medical Veterinary Association for temperatures and times).
If you will be leaving your vehicle without your cat, leave them home and safe.
Siberians can also get heat exhaustion outdoors, so always have water available when your cat is out in the sun.
SOME SYMPTOMS OF POISONING IN CATS
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Drooling
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Vomiting
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Walking with a wobble
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Heavy panting
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Lethargy
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Weakness
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Increased thirst
IF YOUR THINK YOUR CAT HAS BEEN POISONED
call Poison Control and your vet.
Pet Poison Helpline: 855-764-7661 $75
ASPCA Poison Control: 888-426-4435
Consultation fee may apply
OUTDOOR VS. INDOOR CATS
At Bella Siberian Cats, we keep our cats and kittens indoors for several reasons. While Siberian kittens in the Seattle area are built to repel the rain and chill, there are lots of other hazards. They may access poisons (like leaking antifreeze, or others listed above), get locked in a neighbor's shed or garage, or be run over. They could be attacked by predators (coyotes and racoons are common in NW Washington) or stolen. At the very least, they will likely get fleas.They are hunters and will kill birds and small mammals given the opportunity. If your neighbors have bird feeders, they will likely not appreciate your cat hunting there. Cats may also mark their territory outdoors, and will use flower beds and planters as litter boxes.The downside is that your Siberian cat will not have the ability to hunt real prey or wander a larger territory, which puts more responsibility on you to provide chasing toys, scratching pads and other enrichment for your cats' wilder needs.
How to Best Care for your Siberian Kitten
We expect our adoptive families to be able and willing to provide for their Siberian kittens, through their entire lives. If these expectations are not met, we reserve the right to retrieve the kitten/cat at any time with no compensation.
The basic expectations are:
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Proper nutrition
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Complete medical attention (staying up to date on vaccinations, regular (at least annual) exams, spay or neuter, pest prevention)
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Socialization and training such as the ability to safely interact with other animals and with people of all kinds
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Positive reinforcement rather than punitive
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No physical punishment; no screaming
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Exercise and stimulation
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Grooming coat, nails and teeth
This is not meant to be a comprehensive list, but a guide for basic expectations. It is not our intent to remove any animal from a suitable home, but rather to ensure that they are treated kindly and well provided for. See the American Veterinary Medical Association's Responsible Pet Ownership page for more information.
Basic Items for Your Siberian Kitten
There are so many cat toys, grooming tools and other kitty items to buy, but only a few that you really need when you bring your new Siberian kitten home. Necessities include a crate or kennel to safely transport your new baby, a litter box and scoop.
Temporarily, you can use your own bowls as food and water dishes. We provide some of the other basics including a blanket with the queen and littermates' scents, some current kibble, a wand toy, a scratch pad and a greyhound-style comb.
Kittens' play is based on hunting behaviors, so pouncing, grabbing and biting are normal. Because kittens expect to attack and "kill" their toys, never use your fingers or feet as playthings. To keep your kitten feeling safe, you need to recognize the differences between play and true aggression and react accordingly. Play biting is gentle, aggressive biting is harder and may be accompanied by hissing or growling.
Be aware that unlike dogs, when a cat rolls over and shows you its tummy, it probably does NOT want you to rub it. This is a sign of trust, but not an invitation. (This is not a hard and fast rule, all cats are different, but making this your first assumption and proceeding with caution is a good idea.)
Become aware of your kitten's body language. If it meows, pins its ears back, twitches its tail or has dilated pupils, these are warnings to stop what you're doing and give them time and space to settle down. If you have picked them up, let them down. This strengthens their trust in you, and the bond you'll form.
Remember, if your kitten bites or scratches you, it is not misbehaving. This is totally normal behavior. It is your responsibility to teach your kitten the limits. Often, if they bite too hard, your "ouch" will startle them into letting go. If that happens, make sure to pet and calm your kitten so that they understand you're okay and that what they did won't make you aggressive towards them. If you need to, take your hand away and redirect them to a toy. If they come back to your hand (or foot) put them on the floor and walk away for a few minutes. If they have calmed when you return, praise them. Pet them. Keep the trust going both ways.
Do NOT tap, swat or otherwise physically "correct" them. This erodes their trust in you, making them more fearful, which leads to more aggressive behavior.
*TIP: If a claw has engaged, move your hand toward the kitten to release it. Claws are like hooks, and only go deeper if you try to pull away.